Machine Repair Procedure: How to Disassemble the Turret Clamp/ Unclamp Piston on a Fuji HM-30 CNC Milling Machine (Alarm 1002 Turret Clamp/ Unclamp Time Over)
1. If it’s possible, index the turret to station #1 and make sure it clamps fully. You can look through the hole in the turret (with the tool-holder removed) to make sure the live-tool driver head is centered in the hole. If the turret will not clamp fully, you can use the clamp/ unclamp solenoid valve to clamp it by shuttling the valve back and forth.
2. Remove all tool-holders from the turret. Mark the station #’s on the holders.
Remove all tool holders from the turret
3. Remove the front splash-guard covers (upper and lower sections).
Remove the upper and lower section of the front splash-guard covers
4. Disconnect the coolant pump motor cable at connector 1M2 at the rear of the machine.
Disconnect the cable to the coolant pump
5. Remove the split-ring chip guard at the back side of the turret.
Remove the split ring cover from the back side of the turret
6. Loosen the outer bolt patter on the turret face (M10 screws). Remove all the screws except the top most one. This will be removed when the turret is ready to come off.
Remove this bolt circle
7. Remove the eccentric pin from the turret before the turret comes off. Take out the last screw in the turret face outer bolt circle and carefully remove the turret from the disk and carfully set it aside. This is heavy so use proper lifting equipment.
Remove the eccentric pin
Take out the last screw and remove the turret
8. Remove the back side splash-guard covers
Remove the rear splash-guard cover
9. Mark the location of the clamp/ unclamp proximity switch bracket with the switches attached.
Remove the clamp/ unclamp proximity switch bracket
10. Remove the (2) long M8 screws that hold down the electrical connection box near the index motor. Set it aside to the RH side of the turret rear. Do not disconnect any wiring.
Remove the M8 screws that hold the electrical box
11. Remove the 4 hex-head screws that hold on the turret index motor. Do not disconnect the motor.
Remove the hex-head screws for the index motor
12. Set the motor aside to the RH side of the turret rear next to the electrical box.
Remove the index motor and set it down in the rear area of the machine
13. Disconnect the 12mm air tubing from the fitting. Remove the bracket that the fitting is fastened to.
Disconnect the M12 air-line
Remove the bracket for the oil-mist air-line
14. Take some measurements on the rear side of the turret (shaft to the nut, gear to the housing, etc.) You may need this data later to ensure that everything goes back together the way it was originally.
15. Loosen the (3) set screws on the KMT lock-nut on the back end of the turret shaft. Remove the nut. Remove the dog ring for the clamp/ unclamp switches as well.
Loosen the set-screws and remove the KMT nut
16. Loosen all of the M8 screws in the face of the mega-lock. Remove the mega-lock from the bore in the large gear.
Loosen the scres in the face of the Mega-lock
Remove the Mega-lock from the bore in the gear
Back of gear with Mega-lock removed
17. Push the shaft from the rear so that you have approximately 3/4″ gap on the front between the 2 pieces of the coupling. You will need this room on the rear side to get the back blue cast cover off.
Push the shaft from the rear about 3/4"
18. Remove all of the M8 screws in the back blue cast cover. Be sure not to lose any of the high-collar lock washers on the screws. Some may be stuck in the screw holes. The cover must be moved straight back because there are (2) pins that go through the cover into the turret casting. If you have room, it would be better to remove the pins entirely. If you pry the cover off crooked, you could crack the cover at the pin holes pretty easily. Remove the large gear from the shaft.
Remove the rear cover
Pins in the rear cover
19. Remove the turret disk and the shaft as one piece from the front side. It’s heavy, so use caution. Set it aside. The machine side of the turret coupling will now be exposed. Be sure to catch the rear thrust bearing as the shaft comes out.
Remove the front disk with the shaft
Front view after shaft removal. Machine side coupling exposed
Rear thrust bearing
20. Remove the M8 screws holding on the cylinder cap. Since there are o-rings on this part, it may be difficult to get out. There are tapped holes in the face that you can use a screw to jack it out (gently, so you don’t damage the mounting surface of the cap). This will now allow the piston to be removed in the next step.
Remove M8 screws and remove the cylinder cap
Remove the rear cylinder cap
Rear cylinder cap removed
21. The piston can now be removed. It may be necessary to tap it out of the bore (tapping on the front to remove it from the rear side) due to corrosion. You will need a tool that is just slightly smaller in diameter than the front of the piston shaft in order to not damage the piston, the bore of the cylinder, or the needle bearings in the front end of the piston. It may also be tight due to the oring on the piston.
Tool for piston removal
Tapping the piston out from the front side
22. Carefully remove the piston from the cylinder bore. Clean all corrosion from the piston shaft and the cylinder bore.
Corrosion in the cylinder bore
Corrosion of the piston shaft
23. After complete cleanup of all parts, assemble in reverse order.
That’s it, you’re done (it’s not really that easy). In any case, I think this information is useful for somebody out there. At least you’ll know what you’re in for if you should have to do this.
If you are able to use this information, please leave a comment and let me know how it went.
As always, please email (info@pinpointcnc.com) me with any CNC machine related problems or questions and I will try to get you the answers you need.
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Tagged With alarm 1002, cnc repair, cnc service, cnc services, Fuji, HM-30, machine repair, repair procedure, turret